Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Back to Normal

Erin returned from the U.S. on Saturday morning, and I could not be happier. In addition to a few mementos from home, she also brought a nasty cold, which I'm sure she shared with other passengers on that 200+ seat plane. Don't any of you worry about her: I've got her on an intensive path to recovery. The other passengers, however, are on their own.

Added piece of information: while Erin was away, I became the sort of person who eats cake for lunch.

Snus and Chew

After walking all over the city to acquaint Erin with the flowers that bloomed and the fountains that came alive during her absence, we stopped by Hamnkrogen, one of our favorite places to have a glass of wine by the sea.





Seated at the table next to us was a man, a woman, and a child of about eight years old (they also had a 12-week-old puppy in a carrier; more on that later), all of whom had tall glasses of milk. It's strange enough that three people were drinking large glasses of milk at a bar with a semi-fancy lunch menu, but the woman also had a small container of chewing tobacco out on the table. She took a wad out, jammed it in her cheek, and then proceeded to eat the semi-fancy lunch that was set in front of her. A short time later, I noticed a second container of tobacco on the table near the man.

I covertly took the following pic as proof.



Let me say that these people were delightful, as they put the 12-week-old puppy in front of me and let her lick my face while I explained in a baby voice that she was both pretty and sweet (she was). I don't wish to pick on them particularly, but I'm using this situation as a path to my point: Swedes seem to chew a lot of tobacco. It's an observation I've made when watching people buy the stuff at grocery stores or jam a bit in their cheeks while out and about, and I've noticed the outline of small circular containers in pants pockets more than once. 

In trying to find statistics to support this observation, I learned that Sweden produces something called snus, a moist, powdered tobacco that is crammed under the upper lip for extended periods of time and which does not require the user to spit. Swedish Match, a company that makes snus, claims that 18 percent of all Swedish men use snus on a daily basis, which is a pretty impressive number when you think about it. Because the use of smokeless tobacco is so widespread, Sweden actually has lower rates of tobacco-related diseases than any other EU country. Say what? 

The following is a direct quote from northerner.com, a website from which you can purchase Scandinavian snus:
"Since the 1970s the sales of snus is up. Now a can of snus may be found not only in the breast pocket of a pair of overalls, but also in the inner pocket of a dinner jacket or in a purse accompanying a ball gown."
Lund

Last Thursday, my friend Julie and I took a trip to Lund, a college town about 40 minutes by car from Helsingborg that is also the oldest city in present-day Sweden. While there, we visited Kulturen, an open-air museum that takes up two city blocks and consists of houses and other buildings from the Middle Ages to the present that you can walk around and explore. Some of the buildings are on the original site where they were built, while others were reconstructed using their original materials. 

In addition to seeing old furniture and art and knocking my head on one of the low doorways, it was super cool to climb through these buildings and get a feel for how people used to live. Some of the buildings also involved exhibits; for example, one had a collection of Swedish folk art, another was a museum of Lund University containing, among other things, a letter written and signed by Charles Darwin, and still another was a fashion exhibit of traditional Swedish clothing worn hundreds of years ago.






After Kulturen, we made our way to the Lund Cathedral, a truly impressive and spectacular building that was built in the 11th century. The ceilings in the church area are around 180 feet high, and it contains a working astronomical clock that is nearly 700 years old. Beneath the church lies the crypt, which is guarded by the statue of a giant named Finn, who, according to legend, built the church and was later tricked, shrunken, and turned to stone after he wanted to destroy it.         







This week, we will celebrate Walpurgis Eve and May Day, which I will report on in my next post. Until then! 

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Slight Deviation

This humble blogger has been caught up in some strangeness lately, so the adventures detailed herein will be a tad different from those in my previous posts. For one, Erin left for the U.S. on Saturday morning and I've been alone all week. I enjoy my own company a great deal, but a full week alone without cats or colleagues to talk to is STRANGE. I had a number of plans for myself this week, nearly all of which were abandoned in favor of long walks, coffee, and afternoon wine with my crossword puzzles and journal. It was just simply a matter of waking up and saying, not today

I've also been watching things in the evenings like Vertigo, Miss Marple, and Janet Jackson videos on YouTube, but that's not important.

The laziness can be attributed to a baffling realization: for the first time since I was a kid, the only responsibility I have is to myself. I don't have a job to go to or anyone to look after. I do not need to consult with anyone about where to go, what to eat for dinner, or what to do. I have a great deal of time on my hands. I don't have any deadlines, and there are no expectations. This week, I do not even have the anticipation of Erin coming home from work and our usual routine.

Readers with children, please don't be mad at me. 

I fully appreciate the rarity and fortune of being in this position, with all of my health, in a truly beautiful place I never imagined I'd see in my lifetime. I've spent so many years planning, striving, building, working, and adapting that the truth of this situation has taken a little time to sink in. As someone who is usually super hard on myself and who has all kinds of expectations about what I should be doing with my time and how to make it meaningful, it's kind of amazing to take a step back and appreciate things exactly as they are, and that's what I've been doing with my simple, quiet days here in Sweden this week.

A more typical post will resume next week, but I'm taking this week off to reflect on how lucky I am, enjoy the sun and the sea air, and listen to music that makes me happy.

Monday, April 13, 2015

Holy Nimis! and the Arrival of Spring

Swedish meteorologists say that spring begins when the temperature exceeds 0 degrees Celsius for seven consecutive days, so winter never actually happened in Helsingborg this year. For this American, this past Saturday was the first day that spring could be thoroughly felt, and Erin and I took advantage of it by walking everywhere and spending quite a bit of time by the sea. Buds are appearing on trees, flowers are everywhere, and people are coming out in hordes to bask in the sun. We also watched a skinny teen boy in a bathing suit walk down the steps off the promenade, step into the sound, and submerge himself completely. My theory is that this was on a bet, since no reasonable human would have leaped in there for pleasure's sake; we're still a ways off from proper swimming weather.



Kärnan Castle Tour

On Saturday, we also took a tour of Kärnan, the castle in city center that I wrote about in a previous blog post. Until recently, the castle was closed to tourists but opened up for the season in early April. It was once a great deal larger than it is now, and only the central tower remains. This is still pretty neat considering that construction on the castle began in the early 14th century. 

Aside from physically being inside a structure that is as old as this one, the coolest part of the tour was when we reached the viewing area atop the castle, which I'm guessing has to be the tallest point in Helsingborg and which provided a truly spectacular view. Reaching this point was not an easy task, however. There are 146 very steep, narrow steps in a winding staircase leading upward, with only a thin iron rail along one wall to keep you from an unpleasant fall. The historical pamphlet we received says this staircase "made it very difficult for right-handed assailants to wield their swords upwards" during the days when one might be wielding swords at all. If you were to fall on these stairs, I cannot imagine how you could avoid tumbling down to the very bottom, never mind what would happen if you were also carrying a sword! 




NOTE: Hand-drawn interpretations of what falling down these stairs with a sword might look like can be sent to me by post; please message me for the address.

Nimis

On Sunday, we made the trek by car back to the Kullaberg Nature Reserve for a hike down to Nimis, a structure built along a very rocky shore by the artist Lars Vilks. Vilks was recently in the news as a target of the February terrorist attack in Copenhagen for drawing a cartoon of the Prophet Muhammed as a dog.



From what I've read, Vilks began construction of Nimis in 1980, and he continues to work on it today. It comprises 75 tons of driftwood that are haphazardly fitted together with long nails in the shape of a labyrinth that you must climb through like some sort of crazy jungle gym. It feels remarkably sturdy when climbing on it, and despite the precarious need to watch where you step, it doesn't feel like gripping onto it with all your might will bring it crashing down around you. The wood is smooth and worn down, likely from the many hands that have slid over it for the past 30ish years.





Because of how difficult it is to reach the area where Vilks built Nimis, it took two years for it to be discovered. He's been to court over it several times, and it was ruled more than once that it should be dismantled. What's complicated the legal process is that the sculpture has been bought and sold a couple times, and also that Vilks declared the micronation of Ladonia around the sculpture. I highly recommend taking a look at Ladonia's website and reading about it: http://www.ladonia.org/. Seriously fascinating stuff.

We were told that finding Nimis is difficult, and Ladonia's website seems to offer the bare minimum of direction. We did manage to find an appropriate place within the nature reserve to park the car, and then sought markers for the path to Nimis: orange N's painted on trees. We followed these markers into the woods, but because many of these markers were also on trees with orange and blue dots, we wound up following the dots several kilometers down the wrong path. Erin shouted out "this is dangerous!" more than once in response to unsure footing, steep hills, and rocky and difficult paths.



After righting ourselves, we made our way back to the appropriate markers and began the difficult trek down to Nimis. Somehow, we passed several children and a few dogs who seemed 100% unaffected by the difficulty of the hike. I know that Scandinavians are much more accustomed to hiking than we Michiganders are, but as I was huffing and puffing and regretting my choice of boots, all I could think was, REALLY?! 

This is just a taste of what we had to navigate through.


The many miles we hiked wiped us out and we were both asleep by 8:30 last night! 

Erin will be heading back to the U.S. for a work trip later this week, and I have a couple day trips planned for myself as well as a date with a portfolio of old movies. There will also be homemade macaroni and cheese happening. 

Have a great week, everyone!

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Holiday Weekend Recap

Erin's birthday weekend was four days long because of the Easter holiday, so we got out of town for two day trips. The festivities started on Thursday evening with a special birthday meal cooked by yours truly along with some small desserts I picked up at a nearby conditori. Here's a pic of Erin having a nice time:


Kullaberg Nature Reserve

On Friday, we rented a car and drove to Kullaberg Nature Reserve with a couple of pit stops along the way, including the Höganäs Saluhall, a super cute shopping area that is kind of like a tiny old mall filled with adorable shops, a cafe, and a restaurant. We did a little fika in their cafe, and I had a bun filled with lemon curd that was YUMMY. We also stopped in a town called Krapperup -- yes, that's what I said -- and walked around a building that kind of looked like old horse stables but which housed a museum, art gallery, cafe, and butik.

At the nature reserve, we hiked a bit through the woods, had a picnic lunch on a fallen tree, and then drove to the very tip of the park where we saw some truly spectacular sights. I'm including a few photos here, but they don't quite capture the beauty of this place.



 

We are planning to return to the nature reserve to visit Nimis, the driftwood labyrinthine sculpture that is part of Ladonia (a very interesting thing to read about).

Copenhagen

On Saturday, we took a train to København. I love that city! It is vibrant, historic, exciting, beautiful, progressive, and diverse, and I cannot wait to go back. We first walked past Tivoli, an amusement park in operation since 1843, and onward to Strøget, the main shopping district. The streets around Strøget were packed like sardines in a can, and there were people playing music and performing magic in different spots all around. After having a Tuborg pilsner at a cafe just outside the shopping district, we made our way to the famous little mermaid statue at Langelinie pier, near which we walked past a uniformed soldier with a machine gun slung over his back. The result of the recent terrorist attack, maybe?






After seeing the statue and complaining about the yahoos climbing all over it, we walked down to Oscar Bar Cafe for a glass of wine and then pressed onward to Nyhavn for dinner. The last pic above is of the Nyhavn area. Our travel book defines this area as "the city's default postcard image," and I'm sure you can see why. 

As an aside, we saw an episode of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations which claimed that the best restaurant in the world, Noma, is located in Copenhagen. Apparently, it takes several months to get a reservation there. 

Fredriksdal

On Sunday, we took a short 10-minute walk from the apartment to Fredriksdal museum and gardens. While the gardens are not yet in bloom, it was still incredibly beautiful and I cannot wait to go back. One really amazing thing about Fredriksdal is that they house endangered or threatened livestock that are indigenous to Sweden which they call "landraces." Not only did we see pigs, horses, a cow, sheep, goats, and chickens, but we also saw two baby lambs and a calf. None of them wanted to be friends with me, but you can bet that I tried very hard.





It was around this time that Erin started to get sick with an ear infection and fits of coughing, which brought the weekend of fun to an end. Here's hoping for a speedy recovery for my girl!

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Swedish Holidays

Two holidays are swiftly approaching: Erin's birthday and Easter. More on the former in a later post, lest the source of this holiday catch wind of anything she's not allowed to know about.

In Sweden, Easter is a secular holiday and is a very big deal. Signs of it are omnipresent in Helsingborg; namely, twigs are decorated with colorful feathers all over town that are periodically changed out in central areas. For example, the front window of the cafe I'm writing this post in is framed by twigs decorated with pink and white feathers. For further proof, here are a few pics we took over the weekend.




I need to point out that the central picture was taken by a teenaged guy who attends the international school in Helsingborg. After chatting amiably for a bit about where we were all from -- he is from the north of Sweden -- and what the weather is like there, he politely turned to me and asked, "Would you consider eating less meat?" He then asked Erin the same question. There were signs in English all around the city center that said things like "don't eat smiles" and "fur is dead." 

Back to Easter: there are small chick figurines wearing clothes and large plastic eggs filled with candy for sale in stores. There are also crazy sales going on at the grocery stores; yesterday, there were three pallets of eggs in the produce section of the shop nearest our apartment. Only 5 kronor for six eggs (about $0.58 USD)! These eggs were not refrigerated, else we might be the proud owners of at least 10 packages. In addition to Swedish kids painting eggs, the Swedes love to eat them alongside their pickled herring, and Easter is a great time to chow down on both with all their loved ones. I say, why not?

In my opinion, the most interesting thing about Easter is that the little kids dress up like witches and go house to house exchanging paintings or drawings for candy. It's basically like Halloween, except these "witches" really just dress like old people. The folklore is that during Easter, all these witches fly to some mountain to meet the devil. Isn't this the coolest?

On my walk to the cafe this morning, I passed a small school or daycare and the kids inside were wearing their costumes. I made eye contact with a little girl wearing a colorful headscarf with large painted-on freckles all over her cheeks and nose. If I could have one wish on this Wednesday, it would be to take a selfie with that little girl. But hey, I don't always get what I want.

The first pic below was blatantly stolen from the Internet and the second is of an item I happily spotted in the grocery store yesterday.




Because of Easter, Erin has a four-day weekend that starts on her birthday, known as Good Friday in some circles (but not in this one). The plan for the long weekend is to do a day trip to Copenhagen and at least one other day trip, either up the coast or to Sofiero, which is considered one of the top tourist destinations in Europe. More on that next week. 

Happy Easter to all the little witches out there, and a great big happy early birthday to my Erin! I love you lots and lots.